Most aeromodellers take pride in building their models. The finishing touches are the markings and other features such as Civil Registrations. The following text and pictures show how I create lettering . As I am still developing techniques for other types of decal I will not try to address that quite different problem. In any case, there was a pretty good article on creating pictorial decals in October 1999 R/C Model World. I have to say that for me, the method described there did not provide the kind of finish that I want. This is why I am still trying to develop my own method.

Essentially my technique is a mixture of computer graphics and old modelling skills. Because the letters are cut from covering material then, unlike self-adhesive decals, there is virtually no hassle when applying the finished letters. Positioning them is so very easy. That is a great benefit.

REQUIREMENTS
1. A personal computer or Mac. Although I have considerable experience of PC’s and none of Macs, I do know that the Apple Mac is superb for graphics work and is widely found in the Press where it is preferred to the PC. I use my PC.

2. Software capable of scaling True Type fonts (TTF’s).

3. For the fullest capability: Software capable of scaling bitmaps (e.g. images taken through a flat bed scanner device).

4. Printer connected to your P.C. My printer is an Epson 740 and I consider it ideally suited to this work.

STAGES IN CREATING DECALS

• Pictures 2 and 3 show this process on my PC screen and the finished letters as printed out. Draft quality printing is quite good enough. Picture 4 shows the letters being individually cut.

• Pictures 5, 6 and 7 cover the essential preparation for cutting. First, fit a new blade in your scalpel. I prefer the straight edged blades for this job. Cut a matching piece of covering material (I’m using black Solartex). If you need two sets of identically sized letters then simply place two layers of covering material beneath your paper pattern. Now secure these using masking tape to your self-healing cutting mat.

• Pictures 8 and 9 show me simply cutting the letters. Where possible use a steel ruler for precise cutting. I always cut the curves first followed by the long, straight cuts and then release the letter by making the short, straight cuts.

 • Pictures 10 and 11show the result.

• Picture 12 shows me positioning the letters in a dry run for proper spacing. If you remove the backing from the covering then you will have a slightly tacky back which is very useful for this part of the job.

• Picture 13 shows the final stage of applying the letters with a heat iron. I use a setting on my own iron of around "2". This is about one third up the heating scale. Take care to check for edges that you have missed.

• Picture 14. shows the finished job.

Though we are all have different levels of skill, I believe that this method is one which requires very little skill at all. I have tried to make it so that I enjoy my aeromodelling and I really do enjoy doing this lettering which in turn helps me to produce a model which looks complete. I hope that you can employ it too.

Footnote:

If you do not have a P.C. you may be able to get the paper patterns by using a photocopier and scaling the letters that way. Using a P.C. is easier for me because I have used them for years. Photocopiers frighten me!

Oh, the wing is for a JB Aviation DH 71 Tiger Moth. A delightful aircraft to model and a superb kit from which to do it.

Jan 2001

geoffers@ntlworld.com